Dropper post on On-One 456 Evo2

Previously, it was never occurred to me that I ever need a dropper post.  It was for 2 reasons: -

1. It is expensive,
2. I can easily make do without it with butt-behind-the-saddle technique.

For what a dropper post worth for, it lower your seatpost without the hassle of unclamping seatpost clamp whenever you are tackling a tough descend.

Lucky me, I was presented with a rare opportunity of getting my hands on it for mere a fraction of the cost.  The catch are, it is 4 years old and without remote trigger.

My conclusion in a word = AWESOME

In a sentence = My second best upgrade after longer travel fork.

The function of a dropper post is a no-brainer but the ability to lower the seatpost in a fraction of time helps me to enjoy the trail more.

Benefits of lowered seatpost as oppose to butt-behind-the-saddle is a better control of handlebar. Butt-behind-the-saddle has a drawback of extended arms and torso that cause limited navigation of the handlebar. While is wasn't much of a problem for a short stretch of descend, prolonging the extended arms and torso on longer descend can caused fatigue.

Of indelible ink or biometric system?

MM: What has hindered the EC from implementing cleaning the electoral roll, reforming postal balloting, use of indelible ink, and minimum 21 days campaigning period?


EC Deputy Chairman:  .... With regards to indelible ink, it is used among countries which have no identification system, such as Africa and India. They have not reached our level yet. We only have 12 million voters. Why should we turn our system backwards when we have reached this level of technological advancement? The reason there is a push for the use of indelible ink is due to fear of double-voting, but we have an adequate system to handle voter identification and it is nearly impossible for people to register twice ....


Full Q&A

Reading this part of the Q&A made me recall an urban legend closely related to the above situation.

At the height of the space race, the Americans and Soviets approached the same problem: how an astronaut (or cosmonaut) could use a pen to write in zero gravity.
As the story goes, the Americans spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on an ambitious, gravity-immune ballpoint pen; they successfully developed such a pen; and this pen went on to become a massive commercial success in the private sector. The Soviets - with the simple elegance their scientists are so rightly famed for - opted instead to use a pencil.

Source: Snopes.com

Car Audio that works for me

The original audio set that came with the car was with MP3 decoder.  It plays MP3 files on CD until one fine day, the CD stuck and refuse to come out.  I was longing for headunit that takes flash drive over USB but the price wasn't within my budget.  Alternatively, I looked for headunit that has Auxiliary input (this input takes typical 3.5mm audio jack) and I found 1 dirt cheap model by Sony.

Sony CDX-GT180 (see here) 

Cost me RM188 plus another RM20 for installation.  With this Auxiliary input, I can hook-up my phone and play MP3 files with the sound routed to the car audio system.  Shall voice call comes in, I can answer the phone and talk normally, handsfree!  Once the voice call ends, the MP3 will resume.  Even GPS navigation from Nokia E63 (with external Bluetooth GPS receiver) can be heard loud and clear.

Blackberry anyone?

I never imagine myself as a BlackBerry user. Never crossed my mind to own it (especially with my own money).  It was for a reason which I strongly believed that without that 'integration server', the BlackBerry won't be a 'smart' after all. I didn't even bother to dig further on it's capabilities over other smartphone until some of us in the company was issued with BlackBerry Curve 3G (BB 9300).

Before I'm getting my review on this phone, let's see my perspective of some brand: -
1. Nokia (series 60, Symbian OS. Particularly E63 and C5-00)
- Can install Garmin Mobile XT which has an extensive and regularly updated map (C5-00 with integrated GPS receiver, not in E63).
- Abundant freeware, namely SportTracker, a very useful sport tracking software making use of GPS.
- Widely use thus, borrowing a charger at someone's else office is a non-issue.
- No driver required for ready to use 'thumb drive', just don't forget the data cable.
- C5-00 has charging capabilities over USB port, E63 not supported.
- Geotagging camera (C5-00)

2. Sony Ericsson (K800i, W810i)
- PC remote control over bluetooth. And this is native software. Picture this.. long before Steve Jobs flipping a powerpoint presentation with his iPhone, Sony Ericsson did it already.
- Awesome camera quality (K800i).
- Plactic battery? Lithium Polymer battery was used in Sony Ericsson since I owned R520m in 2002.
- R520m has proximity switch which turn off the speakerphone once you took the phone close to your ear.  The switch also 'snooze' the alarm when you wave your hand over it. A practical feature that I can't find in other phone to date.
- Charging capabilities over data cable (USB).

3. HTC/Dopod O2 (Specifically O2 Mini)
- Touchscreen, I like handwriting (graffiti) input most.
- Larger screen than candy form phone.
- Won't receive voice call if you are tethering putting an end to this phone.

4. BlackBerry Curve 3G
- High accuracy GPS receiver (up to 2m! Nokia C5-00's best is at 5m).
- Consolidated messages in single view (Tweeter, BBM, email, RSS, Facebook notification, Gtalk, Yahoo Messenger, MSN and many more).
- Optical trackpad reduces thumb fatigue compares to Nokia E63 & C5-00.
- QWERTY input.
- Seamless sync for Contacts and Calendar on Google (I like this most. Slightly harder to make it work on Nokia E63).
- Geotagging camera (requires some tweak to make it tag on the right place).
- Tracking my exercise using GPS receiver.
Downside
- Won't receive voice call and even SMS if you are tethering and in the middle on downloading big file.
- Must subscribe BIS or BES in order make full use of it else it's just a merely oversize phone that do voice call and SMS (other non-network related application may work except GPS).  Be extra careful on data subscription, some charge high rate after you exceed the limit, while other just throttle you down.

- Hooking up standard 3.5mm headphone won't let you answer the phone using the speaker phone. The caller's voice not routed to the headphone (Nokia C5-00 and E63 work this way, thus coupling with car stereo that accept auxiliary input is a bless, later post on this matter).

Some screenshots

Twitter, RSS, Email updates on single interface.

Traffic updates via Twitter

RSS feeds on TheStar online newspaper

GPS enabled sport tracking freeware, yet to be tested.

Previously I use this freeware for sport tracking

Conclusion
While the features is not unique (i.e. only BlackBerry can do this), at the price I'm getting it (i.e. company's phone) I like it for what it can do for me.  I subscribed to tweeter for traffic updates, RSS on local and global news and some blog that I follow.  My final say for friends & family out there, ask yourself what you need from the phone, not what the phone can give you.

Facebook and privacy setting on photos

Just when you thought you have set the privacy right, but it didn't.  

While going through a friend's photo tagged by his friend, I clicked to someone's profile that we do not have a mutual friend.


The mark with no album link to her photo. Meaning you cannot stalk her photo right?

Forget Endomondo, go for Sports Tracker

I wrote on Endomondo, training software on Nokia Series 60 (Symbian OS) that uses GPS receiver on the phone and plot our workout.  After giving it a try on the newer version of Sports Tracker (the older one is by Nokia, the new one isn't), I give a thumb up on the following: -

1. It tracks reasonably.  I preset it to only records on move above 5km/h as this will cut out those waiting time (on phone)
2. It plot to Google Maps (on PC)
3. It will keep your workout diary for comparison (on phone & PC)
4. It accepts Polar Heart Rate Transmitter connection via bluetooth.  This is what I'm referring to. (Endomondo don't have this. And obviously on phone, who would ride a bike with a PC attached?)
5. It let you upload photos taken during the ride and attach to those training log. Even geotagged it on the map! (Endomondo don't have this)
6. It can upload in real time or opt for offline mode.  I normally upload it much later after the ride.

Check out the screenshot below to get the clearer picture on the features.

 

Burung Hantu Jamboree 2010, Air Keroh, Melaka.

Nokia C5, money well spent

I wrote on this new phone that I bought few days before Raya and no, I was not paid to write a review on this Nokia C5.  This is about how to make full use of the features of this phone or any other particular phone with GPS, 3G and geotagging apparently combined with Google Maps, Endomondo and Picasa Web.

1. Fires up Endomondo on Nokia C5 and start my MTB journey.  Note: The data is loaded to http://www.endomondo.com live thus this cost some data charges to your mobile phone bill.

2. Starts Camera on Nokia C5 and shoot some photos.

3. Stop Endomondo once the MTB journey ends.

4. Login to Endomondo and export the tracklog to GPX.  Endomondo tracks & records your training and I suppose I should be able to monitor and improve my cycling performance ;)

Screenshot of my profile on Endomondo.  Click on photo for larger version.

5. Login to Google Maps and import GPX tracklog to your maps.

View RRI_SKSB in a larger map

6. Upload photos using Picasa (Desktop version) to your Picasa Web album.  Geotagging info are tagged to your uploaded photos.  In Picasa Web album of those photos (click on photo below), you can see individual photo and the location of the photo taken.  However tracklog on Google Maps of the above is not integrate to these photos in Picasa Web.  Some manual copy & paste of coordinate of photos in Picasa Web will enable you to have those photos to be displayed on Google Maps (Click on the blue Placemark on the above Google Maps for better illustration).

RRI-SKSB Recce Ride

PS: I was on motorcycle in this outing thus I can catch up with these avid mountainbiker.

Shall you have extra money

A supplementing write-up to Akmal's post on Weight and Reaction

Generally, upgrading means buying lighter parts.  In many cases, more efficient mechanism. 

Wheelset
Those lighter one also has lower rolling resistance on bearing of the hub.  Thus when we upgrade wheelset, we get lighter wheelset and also lower resistance hub than before.  As a result, we pedaling up lighter bike and better power transfer right down to the tire.

Lighter & Better
Apart from wheelset, the following will also contributes to better you in cycling shall you unable to increase your power output (e.g by training more).
1. Change Crankset
2. Change Pedal
3. Change Tire
4. Change Chain
5. Adjust brake pad clearance to avoid rubbing.
6. Clean sludge on drivetrain (chain, cassette, and chainring) due to excessive lube.

I would suggest that you do 5 & 6 first since didn't cost money (maybe a little insignificant cost of brush & detergent).  This maybe another good way to spend your non-riding weekend, after all.. it's Ramadhan.

Leave your own brain at home

I have no Full-Suspension (FullSuss) bike.  First, I can't afford it.  Second, I can't afford it.  Third, any other excuses will look lame on me.  Ok, seriously.. I know nuts about FullSuss, not so keen to learn about it, and again.. can't afford it, thus I can afford to be ignorant.  Having said this, I welcome knowledge sharing by my fellow FullSusser.  Someday if I can afford it, which means I'm so much willing to be parted with my RM10,000, maybe I would buy it.

Back to the topic, for those hardcore FullSusser, now you can afford to leave your brain at home and let the bike do all the thinking.

source: http://trailcrew.specialized.com/matthew-h/2010/03/2010-stumpjumper-brain-fsr-and-travel-adjust-technology-video/

Parts Spending. Do it wisely (Rear derailer)

I: Why do you change from 7 speeds to Deore 9 speeds groupset.
The person I met in LBS: Because it is 7 speeds!?

 
Impulsive spending
Occasionally I walked into LBS and walked out with something I didn't have intention to buy at the first place. It could be something that I never realize I need it until I saw it. It is like window shopping in ACE Hardware.  However my impulsive spending is limited to cable end, cable housing end, chain lube, shifter cable, brake cable and other consumables.


Parts upgrades
When the part deteriorated in performance or functionality, I'll go for better part replacement. Say that my RD need replacement, well at this moment I have 1 weak reason for it which is the jockey wheel becomes pointy. Since current RD is Shimano XT, better part would be XTR but exorbitant price may not allow my hands on it. So very likely I'll go for XT of the newer model.

For a start, there are 6 variants from current Shimano XT RD which make my choice become harder.  Check out the following: -

1. Top normal, Shadow, Long cage, Direct routing (RD-M772-SGS)

source: bike.shimano.com

2. Top normal, Shadow, Medium cage, Direct routing (RD-M772-GS)

source: bike.shimano.com

3. Top normal, Long cage, Straight pull (RD-M771-SGS)

source: bike.shimano.com

4. Top normal, Medium cage, Straight pull (RD-M771-GS)

source: bike.shimano.com

5. Low normal, Long cage, Straight pull (RD-M770-SGS)

source: bike.shimano.com

6. Low normal, Medium cage, Straight pull (RD-M770-GS)

source: bike.shimano.com

Top Normal - resting pulley is on top i.e. smallest cog (eg. 11T). Downshifting on the shifter requires pushing your thumb on the lever.

Low Normal - resting pulley is on low i.e. biggest cog (eg. 34T). Downshifting on the shifter is by 'release' action by your index finger

Shadow - Non-protruding RD.

Direct Routing - cable comes from top to down.  I believe this overcoming issue with Straight pull.

Straight Pull - cable comes from behind to front, thus the loop with potential to hook on something on trail.

Medium Cage - for chain capacity up to 33T. Eg. 32T/22T chainring, 11T/34T cassette = 33T

Long Cage - for chain capacity up to 45T. Eg. 44T/32T/22T chainring, 11T/34T cassette = 45T

Chain Capacity (aka Total capacity) - result of (biggest cog - smallest cog) + (biggest chainring - smallest chainring)


Decision making
Long or Medium Cage
I'm currently running 36T/22T chainring and 11T/32T cassette on my Kona Cindercone thus my chain capacity is 35T.  This means I can only use Long Cage if I were to use 36T chainring and 32T at any point of time. 
Shortlisted: RD-M772-SGS, RD-M771-SGS, RD-M770-SGS

Top or Low Normal
Since I'm used to Top Normal, using Low Normal requires some adjustment for my brain to register and react subconsciously.  As a matter of fact, all my bikes run Top Normal thus Top Normal would be my choice.
Shortlisted: RD-M772-SGS, RD-M771-SGS

Shadow
Shadow is associated with Direct Routing.  While I like the RD to be less protruding, it comes with a perk of Direct Routing, features that I believe address issue with Straight Pull.
Shortlisted: RD-M772-SGS


Verdict
Top normal, Shadow, Long cage, Direct routing (RD-M772-SGS)

source: bike.shimano.com

Skill School-Descending

This entry may be useful for those who want to comprehend descending technique so that you can do it without causing injury while having fun mountainbiking.

Photo 1: Photo of mountainbiker tackling descending section. The rest of this entry dissect piece by piece from this photo.

Photo 2: Checking 4 feet ahead of the direction you wants to go. Always find easy way out route.

Photo 3: Left arm a bit straighten, elbow close to abdomen to avoid hitting the tree.

Photo 4: Fingers on brake to micro adjust the traveling speed.

Photo 5: Coasting position with crank level to the ground. This is to avoid horizontal obstacles (e.g. roots, rocks & berms).

Photo 6: Firm grip on pedal & handlebar. Flex and relax muscle (no stiff join). Bend your knee & elbow to absorb vibration & impact. Curl abdomen and take the butt slightly behind (and below) the saddle to compensate center of gravity.

Traction 101

Traction can work for you or against you. This is a good example for “more is not always better”.

In mountainbiking, tire traction is a key element of a good riding. Traction is about putting resistant to free spinning wheel (imagine slick tire on muddy trail). The amount of traction that you really need is just merely by being able to put on resistant to the ground, thus enable you to move forward. While having more traction may seem better, it also comes with more resistant to trail thus increase load to your pedaling effort (imagine 2.5" for cross country ride or any knobbie tire on tarmac ride up to Genting Sempah).

I can't give recommendation on "best" tire simply I not a person to refer to on this matter. I believe that there is no single tire thread and pressure will suit best through out a course of MTB outing. It's a matter of striking the balance of pros and cons to cater most situation.

p.s: An element of correct tire mounting is also important.

Cable routing

"Across the head tube" route setup

Apart from front brake (which run down direct to v-brake or disc brake caliper), rear brake, FD and RD require routing either via top tube, bottom tube or both (brake on top tube, while FD & RD on bottom tube).

"Across the head tube" route
FD which is on the left side, the cable runs across the head tube to the right side before tied to top (or bottom) tube. RD on the opposite, runs from right side across the head tube to the left then tied to top (bottom) tube. For rear brake, since I fit on left side, runs across the head tube to the right side of the bike.

"Same side" route
All cables run on same side of the bike, i.e. no cable cross the head tube.

Which is the best?
While there is no hard rules on how one should route the cable, I prefer "across the head tube" cable routing. I have 2 reasons of doing so: -
1. to reduce cable casing rub
Cable casing doesn't rubs on the head tube thus save the head tube's paintwork.

2. smoother cable movement
Cable routing has lesser degree bend in between 2 fixed position i.e. the lever's barrel adjuster and cable clamp on the top/bottom tube)

On my Spesh, FD & RD run on bottom tube. By default, casing stopper (I will lookup the actual term use for this little thing below my bottom tube) for FD on left, RD on the right. I overcome the situation by crossing the casing underneath the bottom tube (see photo below).



To all my muslim friends, Happy New Year!

Tire tread & rotational direction

Continental Explorer. Actual model fitted on my Scott.

For simplicity, you just fit tire to your wheel according to the direction as indicated on the sidewall. It meant to make your life easier after all. For those of you that want a better explanation, continue reading.

For passenger cars, tires can be bidirectional, inside/outside or rotational direction.
Bidirectional - your can never go wrong mounting the tire to the wheel.
Inside/outside - "Outside" is meant to be on the outer part of the wheel, i.e. the part where you see the tyre most of the time.
Rotational direction - it has the arrow that shows the direction of the tire when the car move forward. If mounted on the right side of the car (front or rear), the arrow indicator pointed to the your right side, if it on top most of the tire. (see photo below)

My focus is elaborate on rotational direction since that's the only concern for MTB'r.


Tyre fitted on wheel for right side of the car

On tarmac, rotational direction wasn't a major factor if you are driving in hot & sunny day. Rotational directional comes to its purpose when it's raining or you hit patch of water. The tread on rotational directional tire will "channel" out the water in between the tire and the tarmac away as to gain contact to the road. Without this, the tire will hydroplane (or aquaplane) and car will lost contact with the road renders braking, steering, and accelerating useless and disastrous. As such, mounting rotational direction tire wrongly will increase the risk of hydroplaning since instead of "channel" out the water, it "scoop" the water in!

Back to MTB, directional tyre for MTB is always on the opposite side for front and rear. This is for the reason that rear tire is the driving wheel and it need all the traction required to maintain its contact to the terrain in order to move forward. On the other hand, front tire is always on rolling and doesn't need that much of tread until you need to apply brake. Front tire works the same way like the rear tire in term of traction but in different rotational direction. That's another reason why rear brake has less stopping power that the front.